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Introduzione
Segui questa guida per gestire al meglio i problemi di dissipazione del tuo MacBook.
"Per la tua sicurezza, scarica la batteria del tuo MacBook Pro al di sotto del 25%" prima di iniziare. Una batteria agli ioni di litio carica, se danneggiata accidentalmente, può dare vita ad una pericolosa ed incontrollabile fiamma.
Dopo la riparazione, le prestazioni del mio MacBook Pro (i7 da 6 core a 2,2 GHz con Radeon Pro 555X da 4GB) sotto pieno carico sono migliorate da 3,1 GHz che scendono a 2,6 GHz a 100°C, a 3,2 GHz fissi a 95°C.
Cosa ti serve
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Accendi il tuo Mac e apri Terminal.
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Copia e incolla il seguente comando (oppure digitalo esattamente) in Terminal:
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Premi [return]. Se richiesta, inserisci la tua password di amministratore e premi di nuovo [return]. Nota: il tuo tasto return può essere etichettato anche come ⏎ o "enter."
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Attrezzo utilizzato in questo passaggio:Magnetic Project Mat€19.95
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Usa un cacciavite pentalobe P5 per rimuovere le sei viti che fissano la cover inferiore, delle seguenti lunghezze:
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Quattro viti da 4,7 mm
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Due viti da 6,6 mm
I miss a printable template to leave the screws and removed parts on it for future identification when reassembly, linked maybe with the location in the Macbook, or with the number of the step.
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Posiziona e quindi premi una ventosa vicino al bordo anteriore della cover inferiore, tra i fori delle viti.
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Tira la ventosa giusto quanto basta per aprire una piccola fessura sotto la cover inferiore.
Throw away this suction cup and get another. It just doesn't work! Luckily I had one that does work in my tool kit.
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Tira la cover inferiore con decisione per farla scorrere verso la parte anteriore del MacBook (allontanandola dal lato con le cerniere) per separare l'ultima delle clip che trattiene il case.
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Tira prima da un angolo e poi dall'altro.
this step must require a lot of force. I tried to pull it with the plastic hookie thing from the ifixit set by hooking it in one of the screw holes — the tip of the hookie thing broke.
The amount of force required for removing the bottom cover is absolutely ridiculous. Almost feels like i'm about to push my MacBook towards the wall the second it comes off.
Be careful, I ended up breaking 2 grounding pins on the motherboard last time I tried opening my computer up.
PLEASE DON'T PULL!!!
Instead just gently push with plastic pick from the other side (where vents outputs are) towards the center... Cover will very easily open that way.
I hope iFixit will correct this step.
Came here to share exactly this.
Robert -
That's definitely how this step should be done. Thanks!
VovS -
If someone has a photo to share regarding this comment, it might be very useful. Thanks.
I used a screwdriver at 45 degrees angle and pushed the cover from the hinges, it worked really smooth. I had it close to the corners.
Yeah, definitely don't pull; if you do, wear protective gloves. Mine was stuck so strongly that I just cut my palm quite deep.
You would think ifixit would investigate why the last step required them to pull with great force to remove the bottom case lid as the solution.
It's counter-intuitive to use an excessive method to remove a part.
There's always an easier way. It's frustrating because you can't see inside.
Using the iFixit opening Tool in the hinge opening required close to no force to open.
Ah... after attempting to 'pull' this rear cover off, to no avail, I tried to coax the cover off with a nylon pry tool. MUCH better! iFixIt will do well to amend it's recommendation to 'pull' this cover in any way. All I wanted to do was a little house cleaning and exorcize the dust bunnies that took up residence in my MBP's fans. Today is much quieter. Thank you all for pointing out the obvious.
I was able to very simply slide the case forward from the back of the hinges toward the front (where the trackpad is) and using the spudger thing to gently pry the edge of the bottom case (near the vents / display) 'forward' instead of pulling corners etc. Was actually really easy and slid simply.
This tip was the most helpful for me, used the blue prying tool that comes in the kit and lifted the hinge end up just slightly aiming for the middle of the cover, then pulled the whole cover towards the front (not lifting, pulling towards the front) and is slide right out.
Correction; When prying, aim just slightly left or right from the middle of the cover about and inch or so because there is some insulating material right in the middle that can get peeled off if you go dead center
I agree this is the easiest way to do it.
Correction; When prying, aim just slightly left or right from the middle of the cover about and inch or so because there is some insulating material right in the middle that can get peeled off if you go dead center
Well, I tried a few things including pulling forward with a large piece of strong adhesive tape. What finally worked for me was using a rubber mallet to tap gently on the cover's side edges near its two front corners, to loosen it. Then I was able to pull it forward and off.
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Rimuovi la cover inferiore.
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Disponilo in posizione e allinea le clip a scorrimento vicino alla cerniera del display. Premi verso il basso e fai scorrere la cover verso la cerniera. Lo scorrimento si dovrebbe arrestare non appena le clip si agganciano.
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Quando le clip a scorrimento sono perfettamente agganciate e la cover sembra correttamente allineata, premi con decisione la cover stessa per agganciare le quattro clip nascoste. Dovresti sentire lo scatto quando le clip si bloccano.
If I had it all to do over, again, I would blow out the dust with compressed air at this point. During the disassembly, I kept encountering little dust bunnies, and I was very worried that one would get caught in one of the connectors when I plugged everything back up (which wouldn’t get discovered until I put it all back together and tried out all of the components).
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Taglia i pad termici per coprire la CPU e la GPU.
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Dimensioni: 50 mm x 50 mm x 0,8/1 mm
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Rimuovi la prima pellicola protettiva dal pad ed appoggialo attentamente sulle due zone indicate (CPU e GPU) e premilo leggermente.
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Dopo aver premuto il pad e questo resta incollato, rimuovi la seconda pellicola protettiva.
Hier sollte das Pad mit mindestens 1,5mm Dicke verwendet werden, damit es auch optimalen Kontakt mit dem Aludeckel macht und somit auch die optimale Kühlwirkung erzielt.
Das Pad habe ich zusätzlich zu neuer Wärmeleitpaste installiert und habe eine noch höhere Kühlwirkung erzielen können.
What steps did you take & where did you install the thermal paste?
I have read that you need to be careful applying these strips. The heat being transferred to the bottom aluminium case not only transfers the heat out into the air but also distributes the heat via the case further back towards the batteries which are very heat sensitive. (the heat radiates from the heated aluminium case in both directions!) Could it be that Apple has designed the laptop with the main heat generation as far away from the battery as possible taking the heat down into the cooling chambers rather than letting it into the compartment space and affecting other sensitive components. Could taking some of the heat from the processors away from the designed means of dissipating it to the case be counter intuitive for the battery health and possibly shorten the life of other components. If this method has such a big affect on processor performance I imagine Apple in the R&D have known this and chosen not to implement it - perhaps for the above reasons!
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Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.
Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.
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12Commenti sulla guida
It would be useful to mention the thermal pad and thermal paste at the beginning.
Please provide specifications for the thermal pad and thermal paste, or suggestions for each.
This guide was also useful when just wanting to take everything apart to clean the fans.
Amazing! Thank you for this safe 'n easy guide. I mean that is a difference... Twitter post
definitely does make a difference. Maybe the performance benefits depends on the pads used. I got mine from a brand called fujipoly, 1mm. Also, I used a total of 50mmx50mm, cut in half in total for the cpu/gpu
Thermal paste and this mod. done today, it works very well but the bottom cover of the mac can get very hot attention!
I made a few changes to what the guide recommends (total cost $67):
- Got this 1.5mm premium performance thermal pad instead (instead of the economic pad that's linked) ($22)
- In addition to cutting pads for the GPU & CPU, I cut two 6cm by 1.5cm strips & added them to the heat sink portion that are next to the fans
- I also applied a 200mm by 100mm pad outside of the cover, in between an additional aluminum sheet to help dissipate the heat more easily ($25)
- Am also using a fan-based cooling pad below the aluminum sheet to bring more airflow through it ($20)
Results:
- Single core performance increase: 1.8%
- Multi-core performance increase: 11.3%
- GPU performance increase: 9.5%
- CPU temperature decreased from almost running at 95 degrees celsius all the time, to staying steady at 55-60, & sometimes spiking to 75
Thanks for telling your story about your mod, would you have the same result if you don’t use the cooling pad below the laptop and just the mods with the thermal pads? Thanks
In addition to this mod, I have done a repaste with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and the results were very satisfying. Idle temperatures were around 60 something °C before, now around 40°C in combination with the thermal pads. Definitely choose quality pads, mine were EC360 Gold with 14,5 Mw/K 1mm thickness. Works perfect although the bottom can get very very warm. Having a Laptop-stand aids in thermal dissipation from below and helps keeping the temperature down. To answer the question of Andres Urena: No the result is not the same when comoparing the laptop on a stand with an additional fan and the naked thing lying on the desk. The bottom now functions as a huge heatspreader, so the effect will be greater with additional airflow from below :)
I performed this modification on a MBP 16" 2019. I also replaced the thermal paste in the CPU and GPU. I performed a Geekbench CPU before and after each change.
MacBook Pro (16-inch Late 2019)Intel Core i9-9980HK 2400 MHz (8 cores)
Baseline
Single Core: 1214 Multi-Core: 5359
After thermal paste replacement
Single Core: 1240 Multi-Core: 5543
After thermal pads added
Single Core: 1163 Multi-Core: 5256
I saw a decrease in performance after adding the thermal pads. I tried multiple tests and also tested on a notebook cooling fan. I was running Snagit screen recording for all tests, so I assume that should affect the tests equally.
I was surprised to see a decrease in performance.
accelerated video of replacing the thermal paste
I have a MBP 15" 2018. When I get around to updating that I'll post the results.
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF - Replica
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B - Replica
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze - Replica
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian - Replica
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b - Replica
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron - Replica
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek - Replica
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen - Replica
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik - Replica
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu - Replica
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák - Replica
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'to display the current state, the default istrue- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=falsewhich turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby - Replica
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 - Replica
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka - Replica
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha - Replica
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda - Replica
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici - Replica
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease - Replica
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena - Replica
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet - Replica
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham - Replica
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 - Replica
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato - Replica
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems - Replica
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers - Replica
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -
Read the comments section at the bottom of the article before proceeding with the repair. It is unnecessary to remove the logic board. I actually removed the 45mm plastic bar to enable the cables to slip out then in. It is only there to frustrate repairers!
Jack - Replica